Sunday, August 27, 2006

Dinner at 360

Last night Pete & Sue honoured us with dinner at 360 (a.k.a The Restaurant at the CN Tower) for helping them with their recent wedding. Incidentally, this furthered their reputation in my mind as two of the most generous people I have ever met. Discussions about friendship are probably best saved for its own post - I'll just stick to the food here... :)

360's best asset is obviously the view which goes between breathtaking and spectacular depending on which way you're facing. Unfortunately, getting up the tower reminds one of going through airport security with unending lines, tourists, and security personnel. This long walk is ended with a kitschy sit-down picture in front of a green screen (which is later doctored-up and offered to you for the oh-so-low price of $23). Yikes. This definitely doesn't get the appetite sparked for what is meant to be a "fine-dining" experience.

Anyhow, on to the food. My meal started off with Spanish Tapas ($17) which was 4 different tapas dishes accompanied by spiced almonds and pickled olives. (Note to self, in future, I really need to take a pen and paper with me so that I can write down exactly what I'm eating). The fingerling potatoes with heirloom carrots topped with anchovies weren't exactly Spanish but were delicious. The scallop ceviche and chorizo-manchego were also top-notch. The fourth element, some sort of unidentified seafood puree wrapped in a pickled red pepper was entirely too vinegary for my tastes. I never did figure out where in the taste-spectrum the spiced almonds and olives were meant to fit - they definitely could have been left out.

For the main course, the Lamb Two Ways ($37) was very well executed. The lamb chops were perfectly medium-rare and the braised sirloin was moist and delicious. This was accompanied by a variety of roasted vegetables that all combined together well.

For dessert, a cheddar cheese plate with summer fruit ($14) was very satisfying and generous. The warm brown water with froth (a.k.a. cappucino), however, could have been a lot better.

As for ambiance, what can you really expect from a restaurant overrun by tourists and family outings? The service too was sub-par for a restaurant of this caliber (we waited 40 minutes to place our food orders).

Nevertheless, the occasion and company were more than enough to overcome any lackings at 360. Would I go back to 360? Probably not. The view almost single-handedly makes it worthwhile but given the price and quality, there are far better values around the city.

1 comment:

Unknown said...

This was my first visit to 360 and my first time to the CN Tower in a few years. I had a great time with everyone and I have to say that Pete and Sue basically said "Thank you" for everything we did for their wedding, and possibly everything else we'll ever do for them for the rest of their living days!

As the Cooking Coder already mentioned, the CN tower has gone through some security modifications. The air jet/metal detector security checks reminds one of the scenes in E.T. where all personnel who have contact with the little alien must isolate themselves in some plastic curtain shower stall as they get the bacteria and radiation air blasted off their skin. It was weird, your Honour. I'd still like to know how Jer and Westo managed to bypass the random security check.

Once we were cleared of any threat to national security, we proceeded down the many hallways and chorded paths to get up to the restaurant. I didn't mind the long procession to get to the restaurant. It felt somewhat V.I.P. and I thought we all looked the part.

The restaurant does offer the best view in the whole city. This is obvious as soon as you walk through 360's foyer. Once the sun goes down and the lights are dimmed, the city becomes illuminated and twinkly.

Now on to my impressions of the food... my starter was fantastic. I had the most decadent French Onion Soup I've ever tasted. Gruyère cheese, toasted brioche and a final layer of foie gras and white truffle. The sweetness from the brioche complemented the onions perfectly.

The richness of the soup was the highlight of my meal and probably my downfall also. Once again I became a victim of my own appetite and got filled up on the starter alone. It was worth it and I would do it again!

My main course was a bit of a disappointment. I ordered Québec rabbit and duck confit. This is apparently a very difficult dish to prepare. I expected a lot and was disappointed by two things:

1. Quality: I don't eat a lot of duck or rabbit so maybe my next complaint is unjustified. Dry. Both duck and rabbit, in my opinion were very dry and bland. In addition, the veggies where so jampacked under the weight of the meat that it made it difficult to dig them out. Now, the rapini was delicious, as was the fresh and light papardelle. I was just disappointed with what should have been the highlight of my meal.

2.Quantity: In a single word, overgenerous. The papardelle was brought out to me in a separate bowl from the plated meat. I was given three portions of duck and a portion of rabbit. All the veggies were hidden underneath all of the animals on my plate.

Too much for one person, even for a person like me that can eat as though eating for two. It's actually too much work for the dining experience one expects from a place like 360. I know I sound like a food snob when I say this but it takes away from the meal when one has to cut the dry meat off of a duck bone, dig out the veggies that have solidified into the shape of the plate and then reach over to the pasta bowl to complete the task.

Even if the duck and rabbit had been prepared well, the papardelle would be wasted and probably forgotten as most diners would concentrate on the meat.

Typically, I don't complain about quantity and if this was the worst 360 could do, then it really isn't that bad. I just think that it's a bit wasteful and a bit touristy to serve such large portions in a fine dining restaurant.

My only other observation of 360 is that it has a somewhat confused identity. I had always considered it to be fine dining and its decor also suggests that it is. However, its ambiance is confusing. There was no dress code so it was common to see a table of tourists in shorts and t-shirts next to a table of suits and dresses. The menu pricing certainly suggests fine dining as does the decorum of the wait staff but the tacky green-screen picture before your meal reminds one of the rides at theme parks where your picture is taken as you scream, open-mouthed, hurtling down the first death drop of a roller coaster.

Now don't get me wrong, I'm the first person to put jeans on to go out for dinner with friends. However, I had an expectation of a fine dining ambiance to be had at 360 and I didn't really get it.

What lessons did I learn?

1. I really should be more vocal at restaurants. Had I mentioned my dissatisifaction with the entrée, they might have brought out a new plate. My overall impression at 360 might have turned out differently.

2. Call ahead and find out if I can wear jeans.