Quick Bite at Madras Pantry

Thought I’d go check out the new hot spot near Trinity Bellwoods on my way home from softball last week.  Having never even conceived of eating a dosa in burrito-form I wasn’t exactly sure what to expect.

The space itself has a warm, informal and welcoming feel to it.  Beyond the food there are sales of a variety Indian spices, foods and products (even, amazingly, Neem toothpaste).  The communal table welcomes groups of friends to have a seat and socialize while eating.  Unfortunately, we were in the mood for ordering and leaving which was the main reason for wanting to try the dosa-to-go.

We picked up a butter chicken and a masala dosa.  The masala dosa was the better of the two with a great balance of savoury potatoes and crisp watercress.  The slightly bitter, toothsome feel of the dosa itself provided great context and mouthfeel for the whole dish.

The butter chicken dosa, while reasonable, tasted a bit out of kilter.  The butter chicken seemed to create a slightly bitter forenote that was extenuated by the dosa throwing off the overall flavour balance.  Again, the textures and combination of the watercress worked very well but the butter chicken seemed to be lacking, well, butter.

Either way, a return visit is definitely warranted.  Next time, perhaps, it will be the jerk chicken.  The szechuan beef seems like a bit of a reach for me but only time will tell.  When you’re in the mood for food to go and you happen to be in West Queen West, Madras Pantry certainly is worth giving a whirl.

Alice's Restaurant

Went for dinner yesterday to Alice's restaurant on College. It's a sparse dining area with some wonderful photos from a local photographer (oversight on my part by not finding out the name). Chef Jason Pekka Woods has cooked at Toque, North 44 and other places so he knows his way around.

First, the good. I started with a sea scallop appetizer. The scallops were well cooked with a satisfying crust and were paired with grilled apples, rocket and what I believe was strawberry puree. The dish was well executed overall but the fruit puree was too sweet and generally tasteless (hence the "I believe" in the previous sentence). A sharper raspberry with higher acidity would have played better with the grilled apple.

The main was a lamb shoulder confit on a bed of rice with other accompaniments. As in all confit preparations, the risk here was that the meat would be dried out and unfortunately chef Woods' lamb was not completely spared. While it was generally tender there was a distinct, unpalatable dryness towards the centre. Also, oddly, the lamb was couched on top of a candied orange slice (?). Normally this would have been fine but since the restaurant seems to market itself around seasonal, local food this was a bit of a cop-out (I fact admitted by Woods himself during a pleasant discussion after the meal).

The big disappointment in the evening was with the wine list. Chef Woods is attempting to cobble together an Ontario-only wine menu but unfortunately the wine does not match the quality of the food. Three bottles were put away with gusto: Legends pinot noir, an unremarkable syrah whose name escapes me and something called an "arcanum" (Peninsula Ridge Estates, 2001). All of them suffered from the same narrow, impoverished flavour profile. As always, Ontario wines continue to disappoint with their lack of character, overall thinness and simplicity. If I go back to Alice's I will most certainly be bringing my own wine.

That being said, will I go back? Possibly. The service was top notch, the food - while not mind blowing - was certainly reasonable and the pricing was not outrageous (it helped, of course, that I wasn't buying). Still, given the competition in this space (including restaurants close by on Ossington) it may be some time before I return.

5th Element

How many Indian restaurants are there in Toronto? I'm sure that thought crossed the mind of Executive Chef Johnee S. when he opened 5th Element on Bay just south of Bloor. The answer to this question seems to be: too many. So in reply I found myself at a restaurant that fused classic French cuisine with Indian inspiration. The results were quite remarkable.

The meal began with a small amuse bouche that was a tiny bowlful of the "chef's soup". It was flavourful and reasonably well-balanced however it had a noticeable grit that stuck in the throat at times. Also, as a side note, to call an amuse bouche a "course" (i.e. we were apparently having a 4 course meal) is a little ridiculous. Undeterred, we moved on to the appetizer which was a few grilled bay scallops draped under some smoked salmon. This was accompanied by a soulful, savoury reduction with hints of ground coriander, garam masala, and other notes of traditional Indian flavouring.

The main was essentially an Indian inspired riff on lamb osso buco and was very well executed. Cooked to perfection, the meat fell off the bone and the rich sauce was easily sopped up with light bed of mashed potatoes. Oddly again, 5th element doesn't seem to believe in serving bread - which makes absolutely no sense to me given that India and France must have hundreds of different types.

Unfortunately, the meal was let down a little at the end with the dessert. Despite having built up the meal with some truly inspiring ideas, the dessert on the prix fixe menu was a blatant cop out. Creme brulee, chocolate mousse, and a gulab jamun were the only choice. Maybe it's time to bring in a pastry chef to work on the tail end of the menu?

All in all, I very nice meal and worth repeating (uninspiring dessert aside). There's nothing like trying food where you can see the chef is pushing boundaries and Johnee S. is an obviously talented chef (although, from our brief meeting with him - a shy one too). Worth trying if you're tired of buffet butter chicken and you want to have some Indian with creativity and intelligence.

New Favourite Resto?

Ah... how could I forget to mention this? So it seems I may have a new favourite restaurant as of a couple of weeks. The Code Gal and I went off to La Palette and had what I can only describe as a spectacular experience. Beyond the fact that the food was sensational (more in a second) the service and atmosphere were also top notch.

I opened the meal with walnut-crusted camembert with cranberry coulis and pear slaw. The combination of warm and cold, crunchy and soft, savoury and sweet were remarkable. The dish was so well conceived I found myself reflecting about each bite.

Next up was a plate of wild game. Although there were many to choose from I went with lamb, wild boar, bison, and horse. Once again, the focus on simplicity was the key to this dish. The meat was grilled to a perfect rare and bedded on mashed garlic potatoes with a veal stock and wine reduction. Nothing over the top but all perfectly done.

What really made this place however was how it just felt like you had found a local jewel when you sat down. A place that isn't on every tourist's list of restaurants. Maybe even a little foodie haven... :)

Bandido's

Whoops, I've fallen a bit off my pace here. Ok, back to it. Friday saw a return of yours truly to Bandido's Mexican Restaurant (371 King St W) which is by far the best Mexican resto in all of Toronto. The quality of the mood is matched only by the excellent service provided by the owners, Joyce & Cesar Rios.

The dinner started off with the usual fresh, crispy nachos and salsas. These aren't your father's Tostidos, though, as the flavour simply pops with every bite. For dinner, the Bandido's-only crayfish enchiladas which ratchet the flavour up to intense levels. This "special" menu item has been going strong for the last year and doesn't appear to be disappearing (hopefully) anytime soon. The picante sauce is kept in check by a deep infusion of Mexican spices and cheese. The crayfish are generously stuffed into the enchilda and pair perfectly with the guacamole, pico de gallo, and rice that garnish the plate.

As always, Bandido's doesn't fail to impress. Having tried a few other Mexican places in the last while it climbs to a new level when viewed in comparison. If you haven't been, run there as fast as you can!

Dinner at 360

Last night Pete & Sue honoured us with dinner at 360 (a.k.a The Restaurant at the CN Tower) for helping them with their recent wedding. Incidentally, this furthered their reputation in my mind as two of the most generous people I have ever met. Discussions about friendship are probably best saved for its own post - I'll just stick to the food here... :)

360's best asset is obviously the view which goes between breathtaking and spectacular depending on which way you're facing. Unfortunately, getting up the tower reminds one of going through airport security with unending lines, tourists, and security personnel. This long walk is ended with a kitschy sit-down picture in front of a green screen (which is later doctored-up and offered to you for the oh-so-low price of $23). Yikes. This definitely doesn't get the appetite sparked for what is meant to be a "fine-dining" experience.

Anyhow, on to the food. My meal started off with Spanish Tapas ($17) which was 4 different tapas dishes accompanied by spiced almonds and pickled olives. (Note to self, in future, I really need to take a pen and paper with me so that I can write down exactly what I'm eating). The fingerling potatoes with heirloom carrots topped with anchovies weren't exactly Spanish but were delicious. The scallop ceviche and chorizo-manchego were also top-notch. The fourth element, some sort of unidentified seafood puree wrapped in a pickled red pepper was entirely too vinegary for my tastes. I never did figure out where in the taste-spectrum the spiced almonds and olives were meant to fit - they definitely could have been left out.

For the main course, the Lamb Two Ways ($37) was very well executed. The lamb chops were perfectly medium-rare and the braised sirloin was moist and delicious. This was accompanied by a variety of roasted vegetables that all combined together well.

For dessert, a cheddar cheese plate with summer fruit ($14) was very satisfying and generous. The warm brown water with froth (a.k.a. cappucino), however, could have been a lot better.

As for ambiance, what can you really expect from a restaurant overrun by tourists and family outings? The service too was sub-par for a restaurant of this caliber (we waited 40 minutes to place our food orders).

Nevertheless, the occasion and company were more than enough to overcome any lackings at 360. Would I go back to 360? Probably not. The view almost single-handedly makes it worthwhile but given the price and quality, there are far better values around the city.

The Lamb Osso Buco at the Epicure Cafe

Well, just got back in from the Epicure Cafe. As usual, it was reasonably good - but not excellent. Unfortunately, ever since they moved a few doors down they've never been the same. (That and the fact that they dropped the voodoo chicken from their menu was probably one of the greatest crimes against humanity in our time).

Anyhow, as to the lamb osso buco: not bad. The jus was balanced - heavy, soulful, delicious. The lamb was cooked well albeit the cut was slightly on the fatty side. (Oddly, the waitress asked how I would like it to be cooked - is it possible to braise lamb so that it's medium-rare?!?) The vegetable garnish was tasty and paired well with the lamb. A good dish but not earth-shaking in any way. The Epicure really is no longer what it once was. Overall, I'd give it 6 on 10.

P.S. Now this is getting crazy - three posts in one day?!? Can I keep it up?